They are the shows before the show and the shows within the show. Prior to and during In-Cosmetics, beauty industry suppliers take their customers on tours of what’s happening in their labs, how these ingredients translate into new products and why consumers will crave them. Now more than ever, suppliers must assume many roles when it comes time for a new product rollout.

For example, BASF may be the world’s biggest chemical producer, but it operates as a B-to-B-to-C entity; with the consumer playing the most critical role in new ingredient rollouts and product development, according to company executives.

“People’s sensory experiences trigger deep-seated emotional responses,” noted Jan-Peter Sander. “We have more than 1,000 ingredients for personal care, but we don’t just develop products; we help customers develop concepts.”

To help understand the consumer, BASF commissioned TNS to get answers to questions like: Why do consumers choose products in the first place? What sways them to make repeat purchases? And what how does growing up input choices later in life?

“Great brands appeal to all five senses,” said Bettina Jaekworth. “We combine scientific excellence with market empathy. Our target is the consumers’ world and to figure out what they want.”

She noted that BASF is well known for measuring touch but more recently has broadened its analysis to include sight, sound and smell.

“If a product appeals to the senses, then the decision to buy has been made,” Jaekworth concluded.

Looking further into this phenomenon, BASF discovered six archetypes that provide valuable clues about which multisensory experiences are right for a give target group. These archetypes are: creative, energetic, perfect, professional, protected and authentic. From there, company researchers develop ingredients that outperform the market to help create successful brands, according to BASF executives. Jaekworth explained how the identification of archetypes helps BASF understand the needs of the consumer. For example, those who fall into the energetic archetype have a strong, bold, lively personality. They are bursting with life, confident and uninhibited. They want brands that are up-to-date, youthful and innovative. Products must be long-lasting and provide noticeable effectiveness. Rheology should be gel-like or runny and packaging should afford a good grip, with images, not text, illustrating benefits.

Scientific Excellence
BASF has the systems in place to measure the sensory impact that products have on consumers, according to Ulrich Issberner. For example, to measure joy of use, BASF uses facial expression analysis and human voice pattern analysis. To objectively assess emotion, the company employs electromyograms to record facial muscle activity to accurately measure like and dislike. Similarly, electrodermal activity is measured to gauge a subject’s level of arousal, interest and excitement.

These measurements enable BASF to create products such as Fire & Ice Gripstick, a UV stick designed to appeal to consumers who can be grouped in the Energetic Archetype. The SPF formula, said to be ideal for those with an athletic-outdoor lifestyle, quickly delivers easy-to-apply sun protection, Issberner explained. For consumers who fall into the Perfect Archetype segment, BASF offers the Luxurious Legs Smoothing & Soothing Radiant Leg Lotion. And for those who fit the Protected Archetype, there’s The Caring Touch Active Foam after-sun mousse-to-lotion.

“Altogether, we’ve created 18 formulas for the six archetypes,” said Issberner.

Tony Jaillot reviewed some of the newest ingredients from BASF. They include Cosmedia Ace, a multifunctional liquid polymer dispersion for emulsions; Emulgade Sucro Plus, a natural emulsifier with an improved skin sensory profile; CollRepair DG, which reportedly reverses 20 years of glycation in four months; Dermawhite WF, a skin-whitening material derived from three flowers: Saxifragra sarmentosa, psidium guajava and carica papaya. The material inhibits 90% of melanine synthesis and is more than three times more effective than kojic acid, according to Jaillot.

Looking ahead, Jaillot unveiled Ancient Wisdoms, BASF 2016 trend, which will signal a resurgence of metallic shades such as gold, bronze and platinum. The company offers a palette of shades such as Chione Crisp Gold and Flamenco Silk Gold. The newest offering is Chione Celestial Gold, which is billed as a unique shade of luminous white gold. Suggested use levels run from 0.3% in serum, oil and lipgloss to 10% in eyeshadow and blush.

Once In-Cosmetics got underway, visitors to the BASF stand could watch a variety of 3D movies that demonstrated how the company uses its ingredients to appeal to all senses.

Cheers to a New Surfactant
Prior to In-Cosmetics, Clariant took its guests far from the madding show floor and treated them to a variety of mixed drinks; all to underscore the benefits of its GlucoTain surfactants, which debuted late last year. This sugar-based and sulfate-free surfactant range enables formulators to achieve mild and natural skin and hair care products that clean and indulge the senses, according to Clariant.

GlucoTain glucose and natural oil-based surfactants are said to be kind to skin and hair proteins, and lipid layer. At the same time they offer good thickening and high compatibility with a wide range of ingredients, fragrances, oils and other actives. All GlucoTain surfactants are readily biodegradable and free of Aquatox labeling. 

“GlucoTain is one of our most exciting launches,” insisted Nikolas Lasbistes, global technical marketing manager. “It will revolutionize the way we think about surfactants.”

That’s due, in part, because formulators can choose what they need from a variety of four products to remove the compromises usually faced between developing a harsh product that cleans, or one that is mild but not as good at performing on the cleaning front. The GlucoTain variants, Clear, Clean, Flex and Care, enable formulators to create products with:

• Big bubbles. GlucoTain Clear provides clean and fresh sensory for bubble bath and revitalizing shampoo.
• Medium bubbles. GlucoTain Clean and GlucoTain Flex imparts a deep clean and mild sensory for facial cleanser and anti-aging shampoo.
• Small bubbles. GlucoTain Care. Moisturizing and conditioning sensory for baby shampoo and pampering facial cleansers.

Unlike other sugar-based surfactants that are ring-shaped, GlucoTain is linear, making it less water-soluble than competitive products to improve feel and impart a moisturizing, refatting effect in formulations, according to Peter Klug of Clariant.
Glucotain is just one of dozens of materials that Clariant supplies to the global beauty industry.

“We are one of the top five suppliers of cosmetic ingredients to the worldwide market,” explained Boris Segalowitch. “Our customers want green efficacious ingredients and we are delivering them.”

Views from DSM
DSM also took customers off the show floor to highlight its own consumer insights. In examining how the role of women has changed in China, company executives noted that women have moved from a role of compliancy to independence and, one day in the future, influence. Women are looking for gradual change, according to DSM executives, therefore, they seek evolution, not revolution; they wish to “become” an influential woman over time; they do not want nor expect overnight change.

In China and around the world, consumers seek glowing skin that looks healthy without appearing dull. But glowing skin means different things to different consumers, according to DSM. For example, while US consumers want radiant skin without dryness, women in France want radiant, flawless skin without an uneven skin tone. Meanwhile, in Russia, smooth skin is preferred and dry skin is rejected; while in Brazil, the emphasis is on hydrated skin that minimizes the signs of aging.

Regardless of their nationality, consumers around the world are worried about skin damage caused by sun exposure. But, too often, they forget about scalp protection, which may offer opportunities for formulators.

Top UV Protection
DSM’s Scalp & Care is an innovative concept that offers young males a hair styling solution that also protects their scalp from sun damage. The combination of Parsol UV filters with the support of Amphisol, Tilamar, Valvance and skin care actives enabled DSM formulators to create a light emulsion. It boasts an SPF 30 formulation, enabling users to make UV protection a simple part of the daily hair style and care routine. The formulation, which comes in a tube with an applicator, delivers the right quantity directly to the dedicated area without compromising the hairstyle and leaves a dry touch after-feel.

According to DSM research, 61% of younger males are interested in a hair care solution that provides scalp protection and hair styling. At the same time, with skin care trends influencing hair care innovation, there is room for styling ranges that claim to care for hair.

A strong consumer desire for more diverse styling products was also the driver behind the research and development that went into Tilamar Fix A140. The material’s versatility enables formulators to create different styling products, including aerosols, sprays, clear waxes and mousses, with a single polymer.

At In-Cosmetics, DSM demonstrated its “What’s your hair mood today?” interactive toolkit that displays nine different styling product formulations using this polymer, together with hairdresser tutorials and formulation tips.

“Our portfolio is wide and deep with vitamins, polymers and UV absorbers,” noted Frédéric Boned, senior director global marketing and innovation, DSM. “We’ve improved our position, are leaner and have capabilities across the personal care category.”

Now, DSM is tapping into its nutrition portfolio to develop new peptides for skin care. The company recently conducted an in-depth, qualitative consumer research in Beijing and Wuhan. Study results confirmed that enlarged pores, uneven skin texture and wrinkle appearance are the major aging concerns of Chinese women. But after just one month, a formulation containing 2.5% of Syn-Coll peptide outperformed a market benchmark in reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Syn-Coll refined pore appearance and improved skin texture in test subjects, according to DSM.

More Supplier News
One of the key materials highlighted by Ashland Specialty Ingredients was Advantage 4910 fixative polymer, which delivers exceptional stiffness, hold and lasting humidity resistance to hair, according to Jim Mish, group vice president, consumer specialties.

“We’ve been working on it since 2009; it’s a very sophisticated chemistry and represents the next generation of acrylates,” he explained.

The benefits of Advantage 4910 fixative polymer can be delivered across a range of VOC applications, both aerosol and non-aerosol. The material is compatible with anhydrous, hydroalcoholic and non-ethanol containing systems, all the while delivering clear uniform solutions.

For skin care formulations, Ashland is promoting Elixiance Biofunctional from its Vincience group. This extract of Peruvian Schinus molle extract is natural and sustainable with anti-pollution, skin-purifying and age-perfecting benefits.

In recent years, Ashland has focused attention on improving the bioavailability of its active ingredients; that has enabled its customers to create more effective formulas or even, to reduce the level of active material in product.

“Bioavailability is a core competency of Ashland. We have the data to support it,” Mish explained. “Our focus enables customers to make strong product claims.”

Silab introduced Sebocytine, a sebum-regulating active ingredient rich in wild rose berry flavonoids, which improves the comfort of Caucasian and Asian skins. That’s because Sebocytine limits the differentiation and lipogenesis of human sebocytes cultivated in 2D and 3D models, thus reducing sebum secretion, according to Silab. Tested on a panel of male and female volunteers, Sebocytine normalizes sebum production, tightens pores and controls shine on the skin. Skin is purified and freed from imperfections, restoring both comfort and beauty. It is recommended in all mattifying and anti-blemish skin care to improve comfort for combination to oily skin types.

After 28 days of twice-daily treatment and in comparison to the placebo group, Sebocytine formulated at 2% significantly reduces the surface of pores by 8.0%. It improves appearance and refines skin grain, according to Silab. The subjective evaluation of the effects observed after 28 days of twice daily treatment of Sebocytine, carried out by this same panel of volunteers, limits unpleasantness resulting from oily skin such as dilated pores, excess sebum and shininess of the surface of the skin in more than 80% of the volunteers, according to the company.

Lonza Consumer Care highlighted its latest advancements for skin tone, preservation and formulation enhancements.
“The Lonza Consumer Care vision has allowed us to align our resources and leverage our synergies to provide a global footprint where we can partner with our customers around the world to create market-changing, consumer-desired personal care formulas,” said Mark Miller, senior VP-consumer care. “Leveraging our market expertise and our leading-edge capabilities, we are strategically oriented to deliver science-based solutions and market-driven technology platforms.”

Miller told Happi that at one time, Lonza tried to do everything for every customer—now its efforts are more focused, while being committed to rolling out several new products each year, according to Lisa Bouldin, VP-consumer care.

“We offer a variety of functional elements, such as chassis ingredients, delivery systems, aesthetic modifiers, and preservatives, that allow formulators to act on new ideas and solve difficult formulating challenges,” she explained.

To meet those challenges, Lonza has tech sites around the world, which are helping the company roll out innovative ingredients such as ReGeniStemBrightening, which is billed as a next-generation biotech active. Derived from the meristematic stem cells of licorice, this easy-to-use, oil-soluble skin care active contains a high level of actives to help brighten skin. In addition, Lonza launched Niacinamide USP PC, a multi-benefit active, to enhance the tone and texture of skin and improve its overall appearance.

Just in time for In-Cosmetics, Univar rolled out18 texture-driven skin care and makeup formulations. Working closely with key innovation partners and looking closely at examples of different profiles that women identify themselves with, Univar has tailored a range of formulations to meet each profile type—and it’s just the beginning.

“This is an exciting moment for Univar Personal Care and our beauty care customers,” explained Matthew Ottaway, personal care industry director EMEA. “Every four months we will promote 10 innovative ingredients from our partners. We’re not a commodity supplier. We’re bringing innovation to our customers.”

The new formulations include an oil-in-gel makeup remover that transforms from a gel into a lightweight oil, leaving the skin clean, soft, and perfectly balanced. The iLove shower gel features red heart films that melt upon massage and Mix Vision Beads with vitamin E, which are also held in suspension.  FiFrizz-Taming Taffy conditioner demonstrates superior and long-lasting frizz control performance even in water-based formulations.

Now, aren’t you sorry you missed all the action at In-Cosmetics 2015? Be sure to leave room on your calendar for next year, when In-Cosmetics returns to Paris, April 12-14.

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com